EVERYDAY SCIENCE

Detailed explanation-1: -Waves occur when the force of the wind blows over surface water, transferring its energy and causing the water to move in a circular motion. The rise and fall of water molecules creates a wave that moves in the direction of the wind. The wave transports energy, not water.

Detailed explanation-2: -Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest.

Detailed explanation-3: -The water molecule within the wave move in a circular motion. During a single wave period, each water particle moves in one complete circle. As a wave passes a given point, the circle traced by a water particle on the ocean surface has a diameter that is equal to the height of the wave.

Detailed explanation-4: -Currents. The horizontal movement of water (or air) is called a current. Reflected, or turned back, by the beach slope, water from waves becomes undertow or cross-shore currents, flowing seaward. As cross-shore currents meet with incoming waves, some water spreads sideward and merges with other sideward-moving water.

Detailed explanation-5: -On the water surface transverse waves are formed because of the water ripples passing on the surface. And as we go deep inside the water body, the particles are displaced parallel to the direction in which the wave travels, therefore, longitudinal waves are found.