GEOLOGY

Detailed explanation-1: -Longshore currents are generated when a “train” of waves reach the coastline and release bursts of energy. The speed at which waves approach the shore depends on sea floor and shoreline features and the depth of the water.

Detailed explanation-2: -On approaching the shore, waves break because of the same friction effect. When a wave nears the shore, its bottom is slowed down so much that its top overruns it and falls with a crash, churning up a line of foam.

Detailed explanation-3: -Shorebreak – waves which quickly peak and break onshore to a relatively sharply sloping beach; also known as: inside break, insiders. Shorebreak occurs where you have a relatively sharply sloping beach so that incoming waves, rather than breaking gradually as they find bottom, instead break quickly and steeply onshore.

Detailed explanation-4: -Patterns of surface currents are determined by wind direction, Coriolis forces from the Earth’s rotation, and the position of landforms that interact with the currents. Surface wind-driven currents generate upwelling currents in conjunction with landforms, creating deepwater currents.

Detailed explanation-5: -When waves travel from deep to shallow water, they break near the shoreline and generate currents. A rip current forms when a narrow, fast-moving section of water travels in an offshore direction. Rip current speeds as high as 8 feet per second have been measured–faster than an Olympic swimmer can sprint!